Different Types of Raised Beds
There are many kinds of raised beds to fit any budget and style. For our 4 x 4 ft square foot gardening project, I’ve tried to keep it simple and affordable by going with a plain wooden box frame that can be made and installed in less than an hour:
While you can Google all sorts of styles, I will mention three other types for those who lack tools or feel nervy about carpentry with small children under foot:
- (14) 8″ x 16″ cinderblocks. I know they get heavy, but they are cheap, and offer you extra planting space in the holes. Lay it out so you put down 3 blocks, then start the second side with 4 blocks, then the third side 3 blocks, then complete the square with 4 blocks on the last side. The inside dimensions should be about 4 x 4 ft square.
- Raised Bed Connectors — If you get the connectors, all you need is a screwdriver. Plop your boards in and screw it up. (Both Home Depot and Lowe’s will saw your wood to size for you.)
- 3 x 3 ft Grow Beds – Recycled plastic sections that snap together and are a smaller size to deal with.
(Those wanting a deeper 4 x 8 ft wooden bed — check Sunset’s “The Perfect Raised Bed.” If you were wondering what I use, I’m a link-a-bord fan. It’s slowly making it’s way over here from England.)
Shopping List
If you are like me, you probably have a sidekick that isn’t crazy about long errand days.
I’ve written the supply lists with the idea that it will take three trips to Home Depot or Lowe’s. One day to get lumber, one day to get soil ingredients, and plants/seeds day.
On lumber shopping day you will need:
- (2) 8 ft long pieces of 1×8 untreated lumber for the box sides
- (1) 4 ft long piece of 2×2 untreated lumber for the box support posts
- Box of 1 ½ or 2 inch deck screws with at least 16 screws in it. More is ok.
SUBTOTAL:~ $25
If you can get cedar or similar rot resistant wood that is great. Otherwise get untreated pine and just know that it will require replacing after a few years.
Get them to cut the 1×8 wood into 4 foot lengths for you in the store so it is easier to transport home.
Check the scrap bin first for a 4 ft length of 2×2 that you can have cut into 1 ft sections for posts. If you have to buy a new 8 ft long piece, cut it up into 1 ft chunks and take the extras home for a second box at a later date.
On the posts, it’s nice to cut one end at a 45 angle so it is easier to drive into the ground. If you can’t, don’t worry — you can dig it in instead.
Assembly
First, clamp a post to a board. Then drill two pilot holes with a drill bit smaller than your screw size. This will help the screw go in straight.
After that, put the screws into the pilot holes and screw them all the way in either by hand or with a screw bit on the drill.
Then clamp the next 1 x 8 board on to the 2×2 support post and repeat the process. Keep going all around the box frame.
Watch where you put your screws. While they don’t have to be perfect, you also don’t want to crash into another screw that is already there. Stagger it a bit. Also mind how you line up your boards as you work your way around the box frame so you will wind up square.
When you have screwed the frame together, carry it to a sunny spot in the yard. Ideally it will get at least 6 to 8 hours of sun each day but if your yard is less than ideal, just go with the best sunny spot you have.
You can dig little holes for the posts to go down into and fill them back up once the bed sides are flat the lawn. Or if you have a soft lawn and you angled the posts, pound them into the ground with a hammer. Your raised bed is done!
Next Week:
